Melting Moments

Photograph: Kelly Lynch

Dominion Post, May 2011 –

‘I’ve read Touching the Void and watched North Face, so I know mountains are cold and dangerous. Sure, I’m a tramper, but I’m into golden meadows and modest peaks in perfect summer conditions. The icy stuff, requiring crampons and ice axe, is as alien to me as the Moon.’

Sarah conquers the lower reaches of Franz Josef Glacier (which isn’t that hard, if you go with expert guides.

‘Up close the massive ice block is rock hard, the surface texture varying between an unlicked Popsicle and shaved ice. As we begin our ascent our guide whips out his ice axe and deftly chips out steps as we go. Surely with tens of thousands of tourists traipsing around here each year, including the several groups we can see ahead of us, the track would be well set in stone? Not so. The glacier is highly dynamic, and although two track-cutters are sent up each morning there’s still ad hoc chipping required to help us bumbling novices with our footfall.’

[Extract (c) Bennett & Slater, 2011]